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Fencing & Gates in York

Fences fail at the bottom of the post, not the top of the panel. Ours go on concrete posts with gravel boards underneath, so the timber never sits in wet soil and the panels can be swapped one at a time years down the line.

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Why fences rot

It starts underground

A timber post that goes straight into the soil will be soft at ground level within about seven years, whatever it was treated with. That is where the wet sits, where the air cannot get to it, and where the leverage of the wind is highest.

Concrete posts and gravel boards solve it. The concrete takes the ground contact, the gravel board takes the splash, and the timber panel sits clear of both. When a panel does eventually go, it slides out and a new one slides in without digging anything up.

Posts are set in postcrete to a depth of at least a quarter of the finished height, checked for plumb in both directions, and lined off a string so the run is straight even where the ground is not.

What we fit

Closeboard and feather edge. Built up on site from arris rails and vertical boards. The strongest option and the one to choose on an exposed boundary.
Lap and overlap panels. The standard, economical garden fence. Quick to fit and easy to replace panel by panel.
Decorative and wave top panels. Trellis topped and curved designs for front boundaries where you want light through rather than a solid wall.
Slatted and contemporary screens. Horizontal boards with even shadow gaps, usually where the fence is part of the garden design rather than just the edge of it.
Gates. Side gates and double gates hung on proper hinges with a drop bolt, made to match the run they sit in.
Old fence removed. Posts dug out, concrete broken out and the whole lot taken away.

Start to finish

How a fence goes up

Check the boundary
We agree where the line runs and which side the posts sit before anything comes out, so there are no awkward conversations with a neighbour halfway through.
Strip out the old run
Old panels, posts and concrete footings dug out and loaded away rather than left stacked at the bottom of the garden.
Set the posts
Holes dug to depth, posts set in postcrete, plumbed and lined off a string across the full run.
Gravel boards and panels
Boards in first to take the ground contact, then panels dropped in and fixed, stepping the run where the ground falls.
Caps, gates and clear up
Post caps on, any gates hung and adjusted, and the garden swept through before we leave.

Common questions

Fencing questions

How much does fencing cost per metre?

Supplied and fitted on concrete posts with gravel boards, most garden fencing works out between £55 and £95 per metre. Lap panels sit at the lower end, closeboard built on site at the higher end, and taking away an old fence adds a little more depending on how much concrete has to come out. A standard 15 metre back garden run typically lands between £900 and £1,400.

Which side of the fence is mine?

There is no universal rule, despite what people say about the posts always being on your side. Your title deeds or the Land Registry plan are the only reliable answer, and the T mark on the plan shows which side is responsible for the boundary. If it genuinely is not clear, the practical solution is a quick word with the neighbour before work starts.

How tall can a garden fence be?

You can put up a fence to two metres in a back garden without planning permission, and to one metre where it borders a road or footpath used by vehicles. Higher than that, or if your property is listed or in a conservation area, and you will need to check with City of York Council first.

Do I need to treat the fence?

Panels come pressure treated and will last for years without anything else, but a coat of decent fence stain every two or three years will keep the colour and add life. Concrete posts and gravel boards need nothing at all.

Is putting up a fence a DIY job?

A short, low fence on level ground is a realistic DIY project, but getting posts plumb, level and lined off a string across a long run is harder than it looks, and a leaning fence rarely straightens itself out. Setting posts in postcrete to the correct depth matters more than most people expect, since a shallow post is the main reason fences blow over in winter gales.

How do I choose the right fencing contractor?

Ask whether posts are set in concrete or simply driven into the ground, and to what depth, since this is the single biggest factor in how long a fence lasts. A contractor should also be willing to confirm the boundary line before digging starts, rather than assuming. Insurance, a written quote and examples of recent local fencing are worth checking too.

What to expect

Before any of that starts

A free site visit and written quote cover posts, panels, gates and old fence removal before anything is booked in. The boundary line is agreed with you first, so there are no awkward conversations with a neighbour once digging starts. Old panels, posts and concrete footings are taken away, and the garden is swept through before the job is called finished.

Why DH Hardscapes

Why Choose DH Hardscapes for Your Fencing

Concrete Posts as Standard

No shortcuts of driving timber posts straight into bare soil, where they soften within a few years. Concrete posts and gravel boards are fitted as standard on every job, not offered as a paid upgrade.

Boundary Checked Before Anything Starts

The boundary line is confirmed and agreed with you before a single post hole is dug, rather than assumed from habit. It avoids the kind of neighbour dispute that is far harder, and far more awkward, to sort out after the fact.

Straight Runs on Uneven Ground

Every post is lined off a string and checked for plumb in both directions as it goes in, so the finished run reads straight and level even on a garden where the ground itself slopes or dips.

Need a fence putting up?

Free site visit, written quote, no obligation.

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